Boka Restaurant Review:
Boka's menu, which was already good, has become considerably better with time. We find first courses are a real strength --- complex, artful and highly seasonal. Find proof in wisps of raw fluke with curried sepia, Thai basil, black radish and ground cherries. Other treats may include beef carpaccio with crispy purple potatoes and Parmesan foam. But that’s not to say entrées don’t deliver....
Parachute Shows Off Creative Flair; Masada Worth the Long Wait; More:
Parachute has "got soul" and the menu features "assertive, bright, uncompromising flavors," writes Mike Sula. The dolsot bibimbap is "one of the best versions of it outside of a Seoul street market" while a modernist, flan-like boudin noir is a "mind-blowing dish" with "wildly divergent flavors and textures that still somehow seem right in place."
Homely dishes are just as "unforgettable,"...
Laughing Bird Has Mixed Results; Two Stars for Two; Much More:
Mike Sula is "not sure if [Laughing Bird] is going to be the great popularizer of Filipino food it seems to want to be." There are "unnerving results" on items like a bowl of gelatinous beef tendon with spring peas and watercress that seems "completely out of step with the dish." Similarly, charred octopus dressed in dinuguan sauce is "lost in the deep, livery intensity" and broiled bluefish...
Phil Vettel Loves Boka's Reinvention; More:
The latest edition of Boka is a welcome transformation that will "knock you for a loop," writes Phil Vettel. "Memorable" starters include soft ricotta gnudi and Lee Wolen's octopus in a burnt-orange seasoned pork broth, which will "spoil you for other versions." The veggie work is "joyful and delicious," with the "picture-perfect" broccoli salad a "must-order" dish of stems and florets with...