In a kitchen that measures three feet by five feet, Andrew D’Ambrosi turns out sophisticated and often surprising plates of seafood. At this small, vaguely old-timey establishment, the details elevate: cold-smoked lardo liquefying over ribbons of squid in pomodoro; octopus slow-poached and caramelized until it tastes like barbecue; croutons in a kale salad toasted à la minute, so they arrive...
The once-Brooklyn-outpost of the Bourgeois Pig turns into the more locally named Bergen Hill.
EVill bougie bonanza reaches out to the proles of Brooklyn. Bordello stylings carry over, with gold frames on the ceiling, ornate tile floors, plush wallpaper. Settle into a velvet Louis XIV seat for serious French-inspired imbibing. Fancy cocktails mashup Medi and Tiki, get complex like the brandy, lime, ginger, and caraway liquor of the Kaiser Swizzle. Fondue reprises, choose among French...