Restaurant Review: The Commissary:
In a profession loaded with bad boys, chef John Tesar stands out. Mercurial, dismissive, he’s a hyperactive hothead with a self-destructive streak so legendary that his old pal Anthony Bourdain has written about it. Tesar is so good at embodying the tantrum-throwing temperamental-chef stereotype that D Magazine made him the subject of the September cover story, titled “The Most Hated Chef in...
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Commissary Restaurant Review:
The Commissary serves gourmet burgers in a dozen varieties, along with salads and snappy sides. The kitchen employs an avant-garde technique to cook the burgers: first steaming them in a C-Vap machine until they reach 140 degrees, then finishing them with a quick sear on a grill. The result: a burger that's beautifully red across the center, with a dark, caramelized crust. High-end toppings...