Among the first of NYC's "high-end Indians", this Flatironer still delivers with "delicious" subcontinental cooking (including "veggies a carnivore could die for") served up in "exotic" environs; to some "it's not the same" since Suvir Saran exited the kitchen, but the majority calls it an overall "wonderful experience."
Devi brings a touch of elegant spice and spaciousness to this sometimes gritty block of East 18th Street, located dead south of ABC Carpet & Home. Step into a warm and open space peppered with temple artifacts and draped in lanterns and gauze. A full bar sits to the right, banquettes to the left, and a balcony level dining room at the top of the stairs. The operative colors are red, yellow...
There are restaurants that bring you back to yourself and those that spirit you away. Devi belongs to the latter group. It casts its spell visually, with glowing blue and red and yellow lights, and it works its exotic magic through its take on Indian food, more varied, multidimensional, nimble and surprising here than at the scores of samosa factories throughout these vindaloo-bewitched...
Few of the many Indian restaurants in the city are like this one. Dévi offers $45 to $85 tasting menus (vegetarian and nonvegetarian), and that’s really the way to go. The menu features small courses that will let you sample much of what the restaurant has to offer. Some of the highlights include tender tandoori chicken stuffed with spicy herbs; halibut coated in a cilantro rub accompanied with...