Established in 1974, Guernica is one of those funky old restaurants that you'd probably pass up for something more chic and modern down the street if you didn't know better. What? You don't know about Guernica's legendary paella? Well, now you do. Be sure to share it, 'cause it's large enough to feed three. Begin with an appetizer of mussels or escargots. Other main courses include veal...