A few garden tables and a counter with some stools on an old concrete slab across from the Hana Ball Park do not suggest great dining, but looks are deceiving: the food here is some of the best Thai cuisine available on Maui. The house specialty—crispy opakapaka (pink snapper) with mango salad—is itself worth the drive. Other musts are the drunken noodles, pad thai, and green papaya salad. The...