“Bring on the onion volcano” clamor customers who count on an “entertaining” “show” for “all ages” (even “jaded teenagers”) at this Japanese steakhouse chain where teppanyaki chefs perform tableside feats while delivering “reliable” eats, including sushi and other “updated” items; critics call it “tired”, “tacky” and “overpriced”, but it works as a place to “take the kids and still have an...