Fresh and healthy intersect with cheap and filling at this busy restaurant. The menu lists "chicken," "shrimp," "pork," and even "lobster" -- in quotes because the kitchen doesn't use meat, poultry, fish, or dairy (some beverages have condensed milk). The chefs fry and barbecue tofu and gluten into more-than-reasonable facsimiles using techniques owner Cuong Van Tran learned from Buddhist monks...