“Go where the locals go” advise regulars of this Chinatown “mainstay” whose “delightful” treatment of Chinese “classics” and “nice-size portions” make it a “cheap” thrill; the “super-friendly” staff, with chef Cathy Wu as “den mother”, adds to the feel-good experience, though tepid scores suggest surveyor indifference to a 2009 top-to-bottom renovation.