Handmade flour tortillas are the name of the game at the East Plano place that used to be Aparicio’s Restaurante and Tequila Bar. Now it’s an order-at-the-counter taqueria, featuring mammoth tacos, each wrapped in foil and served in its own red plastic basket. Guisados (stews) are a specialty, and the beef chile verde version is a standout, beautifully spiced, supersaucy, cradling big, tender...