Of Portland's sushi restaurants, Benkay is the hippest, usually teeming with a lively crowd lured by good value. It's also the most authentic: Chef Seiji Ando trained in his native Osaka and in Kyoto. The sushi, sashimi, and maki roll menus are inexpensive and deliver a lot for the money, with a pretty wide assortment of choices. Standard Japanese treats like tempura, gyoza, teriyaki, tempura,...