Denisse Lina Chavez, the chef and owner of Carnitas El Atoradero, is an evangelist for her native country’s cuisine. She won a following cooking carnitas in her bodega next door; now, with a proper kitchen, she makes daily specials with traditional herbs and spices shipped by her sister from Mexico. The specials might include mole poblano, made not with chocolate but with cacao beans, and goat...