Casa Del Chef is not an Ecuadorean restaurant, despite the Andean pan flutes on the soundtrack and the heritage of its chef and owner, Alfonso Zhicay, who grew up on a sugar-cane plantation in Gualaceo. The food — the kind of thoughtful farm-to-table cooking now standard in other parts of the city but still a rarity in this neighborhood — is rooted in the country Mr. Zhicay now calls home....