Going on 35 years, this "old-time" "Columns-A-and-B" Chinese off City Avenue in Wynnefield is still worthy of "important family events" thanks to "heaven-sent dumplings" and other "excellent" Sichuan offerings, owners who "know their customers by first name" and a staff so quick it seems like the "food appears before you order it"; few seem to mind there's "no ambiance" to speak of.