The name of this family-run restaurant in Long Island's wine country translates as "heart of the vines." Lace curtains, candlelight, and fine china are part of the romantic setting. The fine fare served here is French: seared duck breast and confit, braised sweetbreads, grilled filet mignon with béarnaise sauce. An extensive wine list accompanies the menu. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. in...