Contra Restaurant Review:
Contra is the perfect place for those who don't like to make choices, because there are none. The entire restaurant is reserved for a fixed menu that changes nightly. You can choose your wine from a very short list, a bread supplement, and whether you want an optional cheese course, sometimes extra meat (quail one night, duck the next), but you're leaving yourself in the able hands of chefs who...
Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske have a personal, understated, modern approach to deeply seasonal cooking. Mr. von Hauske makes the desserts and the bread, which costs an extra $3 and is worth it for the supremely creamy butter alone. Mr. Stone does the rest. They share an approach to cooking that is catching on among other young chefs, some of whose food gets lumped in with the New Nordic...
Alums from Isa in Williamsburg and Copenhagen's Noma are behind this buzzed-about Lower East Sider, offering a dinnertime-only New American prix fixe menu. The narrow storefront is bare-bones but chic, with wooden tables and stools and exposed brick walls.