American bistro fare and a short but first-rate list of cheeses, wines and beers can be found at this restaurant set on a side street in Ballard. We like to dine at a row of banquettes as much as we enjoy perching at the counter, where we can watch the chef simmering the evening’s delights. Creamy celeriac soup gets our palates revved up for more savory treats to come. Basics, like a roasted...