Chef Iliana de la Vega, who previously helmed the lauded El Naranjo in Oaxaca City, brings this brick-and-mortar restaurant to Downtown; authentic, affordable interior Mexican fare's available for brunch, lunch and dinner, using as many locally sourced ingredients as possible.
Being a great taco in Austin is a little bit like being a supermodel in Brazil – meaning, it's hard for Mexican food to shine, really shine. Yet somehow El Naranjo is a Mexican restaurant that I, a San Antonio native, can't stop thinking about since my recent visit. Was it their chocolatey mole sauce? The juicy pork bursting out of their chili relleno? How about their orange flan – a dessert I was all prepared to hate, until that first transcendent bite, when my tongue had the good fortune to taste that silky pudding sliced through with citrus? It's probably all of the above, these tributes...
Rainey Street's newest addition, and my my, is it a welcome one. A food trailer-turned-upscale restaurant, El Naranjo applies a more culinary eye to your standard Mexican fare. Order the delicious, cocoa-tinged mole sauce on absolutely anything (except, perhaps, the flan).
I first met Iliana de la Vega and her husband, Ernesto Torrealba, many years ago when I was in Oaxaca City researching for Frommer's Mexico. They had just opened a restaurant, which would eventually win acclaim from major publications both in Mexico and abroad and become a hot spot on the travel circuit through interior Mexico. But troubled times came to Oaxaca, forcing Iliana and her family to...