Departing from a lunchtime deli menu, the nighttime menu raises the innovative bar. Appetizers range from wild boar carpaccio to monkfish medallions. The entree menu features an array of main dishes, sauces, and sides. The chef's play on surf and turf is alligator and sweetbreads in a wild-game reduction. The lemon snapper--served Asian-style on a bed of soba noodles--and the house-made pasta filled with creamy ricotta cheese and broccoli rabe in a sun-dried tomato beurre blanc burst with flavor. Simple white dishes in varying shapes highlight each presentation, making the food appealing to...