Ed “Jean Luc” Kleefield has turned Main Street eye sore Mumbo Gumbo into a more laid back environ. Lots of flouncy fabric, an imposing fireplace and trellises around the 40-foot wrap-around bar create a less than homey vibe, but with 50 wines on hand Grappa offers a less stuffy alternative for a local glass or bottle of vino than the American across the street.