The whimsically decorated mock-Victorian rooms at this 1879 hotel give a modern twist to the excesses of the era. The antique furnishings include iron-and-brass beds, gingerbread flourishes, and, in one room, art-deco appointments. The two front rooms, which can be noisy, have balconies. The menu at the hotel's fine restaurant ($$$) changes seasonally and ranges from country hearty to...