Jeng Chi

Drop in to go beyond the egg roll. Dumplings rule, served in bamboo baskets and filled not just with pork, but also beef, chicken, shrimp, and vegetables. Mustard tuber soup has a clean, assertive broth with notes of salt and sesame and thin strips of pork.

Though people covet authenticity in ethnic food, Chinese has remained resolutely Americanized. Stir-fried chicken and vegetables in cornstarch sauce may not be the real article, but it’s sweet and cheap. What’s your problem?But a few places go beyond the egg roll. Jeng Chi, in one of the big Asian shopping centers on Greenville Avenue in Richardson, is a stellar example. Dumplings rule, served...