M. Wells Steakhouse Restaurant Review:
Montréal chef Hugue Dufour stirred up the New York dining landscape when he opened M. Wells in an old diner space in Queens (now M. Wells Dinette at MoMa PS1). He’s done the same in the steakhouse world with this mecca of meat in Long Island City. Housed in a former body shop garage, M. Wells Steakhouse exudes a fine balance of both warmth and hipness. The menu, as you’d expect from Dufour, is...
Discipline is not the strong suit of M. Wells Steakhouse, for better and for worse. It can lurch from magnificence to sloppiness, from inspired fever dreams to inarticulate notions that aren’t ready to leave the kitchen. One thing that needs improvement is the steaks. This isn’t as fatal as you’d think, because when M. Wells Steakhouse succeeds, it does so in a deeply satisfying fashion, by...
Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis' Québécois-accented take on the classic steakhouse, this much-anticipated LIC arrival is set in a strikingly redone former auto body shop, complete with a full bar and open kitchen showcasing a live trout tank and wood-fired grill; the big-ticket menu features lots of tweaked throwbacks (iceberg wedge salad, a Coquilles St. Jacques variation), as well as a...