The Nouveau captures the Gallic bent of this upscale eatery. The decor is bright and tasteful, if fairly nondescript, but the food is memorable. Find a host of hearty pasta dishes as well as rich minestrone and tasty antipasti. Along with the ravioli, the menu offers a classic French-Basque Piperade (slow-simmered tomatoes and peppers over a pot roast so tender that the beef melts in your...