Patacon Pisao

The specialty here is patacón, the formidable sandwich of the city of Maracaibo, Venezuela, bookended not by bread but by unripe plantains that have been fried, smashed and fried again. The small but sleek storefront traces its origins back to 2005, when Liliana Velazquez, a native of Maracaibo, started selling patacónes out of a truck in Inwood, Manhattan. Her elder son, Jonathan Hernandez,...