Any place that touts itself as fusion is rightly met with resistance. But once in a blue moon, it works. Ramen California adds a new level to L.A.'s ramen wars (up there with the burger wars), adding western flourishes and unheard-of ingredients like potatoes and and cheeses. Minds are blown. In case your tastebuds aren't working, the complete lack of decor reminds diners to focus on the food.