The new Russ & Daughters Cafe is modeled, to an almost obsessive degree, on the old Russ & Daughters shop a few blocks away on East Houston Street. In the center of the restaurant, sides of salmon and whole, golden-skinned whitefish with their slit bellies pointing up wait in a refrigerated case until they are sliced to order by a counter worker in a white jacket, just as at the original. But...
This family-run LES "landmark" dating to 1914 is in a "class by itself" thanks to the "new generation" there that's "keeping up the quality" with "drool-worthy displays" of "legendary offerings", notably sable and "lox to dream of", "herring perfection", "top-quality" caviar and more, from bagels and babka to dried fruits and chocolate; it's always a "mad scene", especially at holidays ("oy...
Russ & Daughters began as a push cart operation in 1908, and today is still family-run four generations later. They sell incomparable smoked fish and nova (similar to lox); try the tantalizing smoked-salmon medley package, which serves six and sells for about $89—and worth every penny.
Pull a numbered tab out of the dispenser and soak in the tradition. Specializes in caviar and smoked fish, with tasty bagels and cream cheese to make a full meal. Been around since 1914, still run by the original family.