The menu at this regional restaurant reaches from Sindh to Bengal, with some strength in the western provincial foods (Gujarat, Bombay) and their interesting sweet-hot flavors. Baigan bhurta is a platter of grilled, mashed eggplant; the rice dishes, chais, and breads are all excellent; and the lunchtime buffet is usually a quick in-and-out affair. The spicing starts mild, so don't be afraid to...