At this Manhattan outpost of Kung Fu Xiao Long Bao, in Flushing, Queens, the soup dumplings, or xiao long bao, are near perfect: the skin is delicate but does not break, and is ultra-thin, less armor than envelope for the loose, yielding meat and pork-stock broth. The rest of the menu is greatest-hits Chinese, corralling Sichuan flamethrowers with old-school Cantonese. Much of this is...