It’s all here: tile floors and straw chairs, caskets of hanging Chianti bottles, photos of Hollywood notables who’ve dug into hearty pasta dishes, and the oozy croon of Dean Martin murmuring through the dimly lit dining room. What’s missing is the cheese. Sure they have it grated or sliced, but thankfully, Mondo’s feels neither clichéd nor corny. Take your time over a bowl of niçoise...