Upland’s owner and impresario-in-chief, Stephen Starr, has opened jostling, thumping, nightclub-slash-restaurants as well as intimate stages for chefs. Upland occupies the middle ground, a big restaurant that has enough set dressing to feel like an event without competing with the food. For the kitchen Mr. Starr recruited Justin Smillie, whose intensely flavorful spins on Italian cuisine at Il...