Peddling "hearty portions" of "family-style" classics, this "old-world Italian joint" in Petaluma is a "throwback in every way" – and "satisfies" with "every cliché" in the process, from the "checkered tablecloths" to the "speakeasy"-like "bar in back"; "you'll be stuffed when you leave", and the "friendly staff" even busts out "accordion music frequently" to round out the "down-home charm."